Article

A Farmer, A Foodie & A Feast

Join us from the farm to the table with Cathy McGregor-Smith of McSmith's Organic Farm and one of her longtime customers, Serge Lavoie.

THE FARMER

McSmith's Organic Farm began in 1984 and ever since, the owners, as well as their daughters, Lisa and Janis, have put a lot of themselves into its success. It's fitting that the farm's name is a catchy combination of Cathy McGregor-Smith and Gary Smith's family names.

The keyword at McSmith's is diversification. Vegetables are grown in greenhouses, hoophouses and fields. Field crops include organic soybeans and spring grains for livestock and poultry. One thousand certified organic hens lay eggs for OntarioBio Farmer's Co-op. Cattle are pastured for beef. Gary custom mixes animal and poultry rations. In recent years, McSmith's has shifted more of their focus to raising organic chickens, and have made sizable investments in chicken quota.

Cathy is definitely a woman with many hats (farmer, organic inspector, educator and promoter of local and organic). You can just imagine those hats flying through the air as she covers so much ground (literally and figuratively) in a typical week.

Knowing that once there was a hint of spring Cathy would be working at full tilt, we arranged a chat on a cold day early in March.

What is going on at the farm this time of year?

We are looking after the chickens whose hatching was timed so that they will be ready for sale the first week of May. We are starting onion, leeks and peppers, preparing and filling the greenhouses. We plant lettuce plugs the 2nd or 3rd week of March. The seeds have been ordered. Calves are being born—that's timed so that they will be mature by winter.

We frost-seed the pasture with clover / pasture mix—this works well because as the ground freezes and thaws, the seed is incorporated into the soil and won't germinate until there is a good moisture supply.

What was involved in becoming an organic inspector?

The International Organic Inspectors Association trains inspectors all over the world. My first course for basic crops was in New Brunswick. Then, I took the livestock training in Ohio. Standards vary for different countries—for example if spelt (a hardy wheat) is being shipped to Switzerland, it must be grown and inspected to Swiss standards. Last summer I conducted over 145 inspections. I have also been hired by Farmers' Markets Ontario to be one of their farm inspectors.

When do the new organic certification standards go into effect?

Starting in July, use of the Canada Organic Logo and the term "certified organic" will legally require adherence to Canadian Organic Standards. The CFIA (Canadian Food Inspection Agency), who oversees certification, held information sessions for certifying bodies, inspectors and farmer groups so all will be up to speed. It's been a very worthwhile process.

You are on the board of the St. Thomas Horton Market—what are your hopes for the market this year?

The building renovations have been completed and there are four new freezer/cooler units. We hope to fill the building with products like meat, Lake Erie fish, baked goods, artisan type bread, preserves and special coffees. There is a demonstration area and potential for groups to share their food specialities. I hope it will be a hub for building community connections through special events, a gathering place, and a fun place for kids.

You and Gary have been farming organically for 26 years now. How is the demand for organic food, and what are the obstacles to making a living farming?

The demand for organic foods has increased and for some items like fingerling potatoes and fancy lettuces, the demand is crazy. The biggest obstacle is age! The work is very physical, and at this stage we would like to phase out some of the heavier aspects and use our experience to make a living. I enjoy doing the inspections, and Gary installed several solar systems in 2008. Our daughter and son-in-law (Janis & Mark) like farming and hope to make a living at it in the future.

Tell me about your interest in insects on the farm.

Yes, it has been a long-time interest. I worked at Agriculture Canada for 13 years in entomology, doing research into biological control, but government interest in that went by the wayside. Recently, I teamed up with an entomologist from Vineland. We presented "Insects on the Farm…Friends & Foes" at the Guelph Organic Conference, she on the more academic aspects and I on the practical end of using beneficial insects to get rid of pests.

Cathy's down-to-earth, knowledgeable approach makes her a natural for sharing information with other farmers and customers. Visitors to her booth at the Saturday Horton's market value the chance to select unique vegetables and hear the "story" behind them.

Cathy and Gary believe locally produced food is good, and obviously, that locally produced organic is even better. Whatever the choice, Cathy would like people to be informed and aware. She notes, people often don't realize that the terms "organic" and "natural" aren't backed by standards, whereas "certified organic" is. Sometimes there's a focus on price without regard for the labour involved or the extra benefits of a locally grown or organic product. She recalls carefully tended bounteous crops that have been ruined in minutes by weather or pests.

When you talk with Cathy about life as an organic farmer, her almost ever-present smile is upon occasion replaced by a quick frown. Then the smile returns and it's on with the work of growing good food and public awareness.

McSmith's Organic Farm is at the Horton Farmers Market on Saturdays. Phone 519-631-0279 to order and pick up McSmith's certified organic chicken, or visit their website www.mscmithsorganicfarm.com.

THE FOODIE

Since the 90's, the Lavoie household's connection to McSmith's Organic Farm has been a match made in foodie heaven. Local resident Serge Lavoie has enjoyed preparing meals since he was eight. He chatted recently on culinary adventures inspired by McSmith's.

When did you start visiting McSmith's Organic Farm?

I was involved with organization of a Canadian Health Food Association conference in the 90's. Cathy gave a talk on certified organic agriculture—I was very impressed with her dynamic presentation. We lived in Toronto, but from that point on we started visiting McSmith's enroute from Toronto to Port Stanley on weekends. (Serge and his family moved to St. Thomas in 2000.)

Over the years, McSmith's has tried different models—CSA (Community Shared Agriculture), selling throughout the year from the farm, and now at the St. Thomas Horton Market. We have stayed with them wherever they go.

Why are you a loyal McSmith's customer?

McSmith's has such a great variety! It inspires experimentation in cooking. They have unique types of zucchini, winter squash, eggplants, a French style bean I like, fingerling potatoes, delicious beets (including the greens). We buy their tomatoes for canning and for sauce every year and grow some of their tomato plants at home. We also buy eggs from the farm and usually run into Cathy when we are there.

We don't insist all our food be 100% organic but we do like to know the person who is growing our food, and have opportunity to see the farm operation. We have visited the farm often, ever since our younger kids were toddlers. It was an outing, a chance to see baby goats and so on. I think that helped connect them to food as they saw it through the seasons. Now that my older daughter has children we enjoy our visits to the farm with the grandchildren.

Gary and Cathy are both devoted organic growers, but while Gary's first love is farming, Cathy has been very involved with input on policy and advocating organic for a long time now. Many people have been impressed with her enthusiasm and down-to-earth but knowledgeable presentations.

How did you get interested in food and what is your food style?

My grandfather was a good cook and my father worked as a chef. My oldest daughter is a chef and now manages the food service for a group of private schools. From the time I was eight I made whole meals, including from-scratch cake for dessert. I would say food and cooking is my primary hobby and I enjoy every style you can imagine.

Serge completed several evening culinary programs at George Brown College. Although he didn't intend to apprentice or work as a chef, he was determined to learn the techniques and craft of his hobby. He delighted in getting to "play in a big kitchen."

Serge notes that he isn't slavish to recipes and often simplifies them. He shared his recipe for easy ratatouille with us. It can be adjusted to include the bounty of the season as summer progresses.

In 2000, Serge and his wife Debbie Rogosin were attracted to the courthouse district, and discovered the 1858 Walker/Coyne home for sale. Serge continued to work in Toronto. Recently retired from the Toronto job, he is looking forward to having more time to indulge his passion for family cooking.

THE FEAST

Here we present you with a hearty feast featuring seasonal produce.

Spring Feast Menu:

Balsamic Grilled Shrimp & Strawberry Salad
Serge's Easy Ratatouille
Grilled Steak, Pork, Poultry or Fish
Herb Roasted Red-Skin PotatoesWarm
Rhubarb Sauce on Ice Cream